Arriving in Havana is nothing short of magical. With it’s rich history and vibrant culture packed into Cuba’s capital and largest city, there’s so much to uncover and observe on the welcome day.
When you check into the iconic Hotel Nacional de Cuba, you can almost feel the history radiating through its walls. Roaming the hallways where former presidents, movie stars, and mob bosses once walked is like stepping back in time. Just outside the hotel’s courtyard, Spanish colonial battle cannons—now a UNESCO World Heritage site—stand as silent sentinels to Cuba’s storied past, a reminder of the island’s strategic significance and turbulent history. The blend of elegance, intrigue, and historical depth makes the Nacional more than just a hotel—it’s a living museum of Cuba’s past.
Apart from savoring a frozen Daiquiri at El Floridita—the birthplace of the iconic cocktail and a favorite vice of Ernest Hemingway—one of the night’s most unexpected highlights was something we never saw coming. Standing next to the bronze statue of Hemingway, enjoying a local band with a drink in hand, it was easy to imagine the legendary writer enjoying the very same scene decades ago. Yet, what happened afterward was so distinctly Cuban that it made perfect sense.
While lounging in a jungle cabana just outside Old Havana, listening to Boris passionately discuss the art of Cuban cigars, a sudden commotion from the parking lot caught our attention. We turned to see a classic tow truck towing an equally classic car—a perfectly imperfect scene that summed up the charm of Cuba in a single moment.
The following day, anticipation was high as we boarded the Jardines Avalon F1, a four-story, 130-foot mothership that would be our home for the adventure ahead.
As we set out for our first day of fishing, a sense of nervous excitement filled the air. The conditions were far from ideal—strong northwest winds, a cold front, and heavy cloud cover never make for great flats fishing. However, our guides’ deep knowledge of the vast fishing grounds proved invaluable. While many exposed flats were too rough to fish, they led us to sheltered beaches where fish could still be found. When the clouds made spotting fish nearly impossible, they navigated us through the endless maze of mangroves to secluded bays, where we found bonefish tailing in just inches of water.
Due to the unusually cold water temperatures this week, we quickly realized that catching a permit on the fly—already one of the most challenging feats in fishing—would be nearly impossible. Most of the fish had retreated to deeper waters. However, the fishing was incredibly rewarding once we let go of our permit ambitions and embraced the opportunities before us.
A recurring theme throughout the week was our amazement at the diverse habitats we encountered daily. With endless kilometers of untouched flats, channels, and dense mangrove forests, every session on the water felt like a new challenge. One moment, we were battling tarpon in the channels. The next moment, we sight-casted to snook and massive barracuda patrolling the beaches. In the tangled mangrove roots, larger snapper lay ready to ambush, while the expansive flats held bonefish of truly impressive average size. The variety and quality of the fishery made each day an opportunity for a novel experience.
After battling the day’s challenging conditions, the evenings became just as memorable as the fishing. We gathered on the deck, sometimes with cigars in hand, swapping stories of hard-fought battles and reminiscing over the ones that got away. The camaraderie was as strong as the rum, with laughter carrying over the water as we relived the day’s best moments. As the Caribbean sun was setting, the combination of world-class fishing, great company, and the unmistakable Cuban atmosphere made every night the perfect ending to an unforgettable adventure.
